Vitrifrigo group purchase

Ordering and installation instructions, FAQ's

First, the FAQ's:

1) Does the fridge run on propane?

** No, this is a compressor fridge, it runs solely on electric power, and is far more efficient than older style fridges.

2) Will I need to modify my van or cabinet?

** Yes, this is detailed below and in the photos on my website.

3) What will I need to power the fridge?

** You can run it on the main battery for a few days or so, but I highly recommend a deep-cycle auxiliary battery be added. It also runs on 24 volt, (115 volt and 230 volt current with optional power pack), and chooses the highest voltage source when multiple types are connected simultaneously, like 12 and 115.

4) How long can it run on a full battery?

** On average, the fridge will consume about 20 amp-hours daily on 12 volts. This will give about three to four days if you were to run the battery almost dead (not recommended!), more days if you use a larger battery ( 80-100 amp-hour battery).

5) Can I bug you to help me install this?

** I'm willing to answer questions but this is a fairly straightforward installation.

6) What advantages are there of this unit over the original Dometic fridge of another 3-way fridge?

** It actually stays cold no matter the outside temperature, has almost twice the real usable interior space of the old Dometic, a real freezer that works (although small), and an interior light! No more worries about propane staying lit, difficulty in lighting, etc. It also will work anywhere in the world with it's quad-voltage capability. Vitrifrigo / Truckfridge has been selling as an OEM supplier to the trucking and marine industry for years in the US and elsewhere, and have a good network or repair facilities around the country.

7) What is the price?

** $545 plus shipping (Vitrifrigo), but the new 'Truckfridge' model sells for $479. Virtually the same fridge with a slightly different latch and country of manufacture.

8) Which unit is this again?

** Vitrifrigo C51iSAC, or Truckfridge TF49

Ordering instructions:

Contact Truckfridge at http://truckfridge.com/models.htmlhttp://truckfridge.com/models.html

State that you'd like the C51iSAC (or TF49) model that everyone is buying for the VW campers and you'll be set!

Payment by credit card will be most easily arranged, they do not accept Paypal-yet. I would guess a money order would also suffice, but ask.

Installation instructions:

1) Remove the old fridge, disconnect the wires and propane line.

2) Disconnect and/or remove the old propane line to the fridge at the regulator; insert a 3/8" NPT pipe plug where it was previously connected. It is not really necessary to remove the entire line but makes for a 'cleaner' installation.

3) Move the 115-volt outlet box beneath the sink from it's current location and relocate it to the back wall or other preferred spot. (the new fridge extends further into the cabinet and this box is in the way!)

4) Remove the old fridge door from the fascia panel along with it's hinges. Also remove the plastic 'T' trim around the opening.

5) Using a fine-tooth saw (a jigsaw will work well) enlarge the opening as pictured. You'll need to remove about 1/8" on each side and top, and square the upper corners. You should also trim a small spot where the screws of the new fridge sides may need a little extra clearance. Also, install a couple 3/4" x 3/4" x 2" blocks, using screws, behind each corner of the fascia board to help support it in the cabinet for a more secure mounting area for the new fridge. Optionally, you might opt for fabricating a new front panel as several have done, as in the photos on my site.

6) Using a box cutter / utility knife or fine-tooth saw, cut out the wall-board at the rear of the fridge compartment to the same dimensions as the width and height of the box where the fridge sits.

7) Reinstall the modified/new fascia panel.

8) Cut a wide section of plywood or pine boards to provide a support shelf for the fridge, and screw into place from the sides of the cabinet at the correct level.

9) Bring the fridge close to the opening and tuck the 115-volt power cord into the area of the outlet. Tuck the 12-volt wires atop the compressor.

10) Slide the fridge into place, being careful to check clearance around the compressor and power unit as enters the area you trimmed from the wallboard. If it looks good, level it up as needed and install with the #8 x 3/4 round-head screws in the outside perimeter trim.

11) Retrieve and connect the 12-volt wires to your auxiliary battery with a 10-amp fused connection, or other preferred connection method. Plug in the 115-volt plug to the previously-moved outlet. If using a direct connection to the existing fridge 12-volt supply, use the two 1/4" disconnect terminals for the 12-volt wires ends, plugged into the original fridge wiring plug. Alternately, you could cut the mating plug from the old fridge and attach to the new fridge's wires. Also, if using this existing connection, you will need to effectively bypass the fridge relay beneath the driver's seat, by disconnecting the large wires on terminal 30 and 87 and connecting these together.

12) You should reinstall the old fridge exhaust vent on the body exterior, but use aluminum- or duck-tape or other quality product to seal the hole before reinstalling.

13) Fabricate a panel of thin plywood or metal (or use a soffit grille like I have on mine temporarily) to cover the open space below the front of the fridge. Or use a section of the old fridge door to fabricate a nice matching door as pictured on my site.

14) Turn it on and enjoy! Cold food, cold drinks, frozen goodies! Wahoo!

15) Questions? karl@westyventures.com